www.canicleanit.com

Hi, I’m George and I welcome you to my blog about cleaning. I have been working for 10 years now in a cleaning buissiness, so I’m aware of all the ins and outs when it comes to cleaning. Feel free to use my articles for your own cleaning purposes. If you have a website, and these tips were very helpfull for you, I kindly ask to put a link to www.canicleanit.com . Please let me know if you did so, and in return I will link to your website as well.

The story behind CanIcleanit.com
The idea of creating ”Can I clean it?” came when I was searching the net on good information about cleaning. I did find some, but it was located on all kinds of different websites. That’s why I created a place where you can find all relevant information about cleaning in general, but also about cleaning of specific materials that need special attention.

As you will see, I will cover all the aspects on cleaning. Not only the cleaning of your house will be handled, also stain removal, car cleaning, industrial cleaning, ecological cleaning, personal hygiene and garden cleaning (better known as gardening ).

Navigation and searching on this site
You can navigate very easily on CanIcleanit.com. At the left you can browse by category and see all the relevant subcategories. And at the right side of your screen you can check out other sites about cleaning and featured products from my webshop. Also on the right-hand side of the page you can search for articles, eg. type in “oil” (without the quotes) and as a result you will see all the articles where oil is covered (eg. oil stain removal).

Cleaning shop
As mentioned above, I also have a webshop where I sell different cleaning products. You can buy here almost everything that has got something to do with cleaning. The shop includes cleaning products, cleaning tools, cleaning appliances, washers, dryers, personal care products, garden tools, lawn mowers, leafblowers,…

If you have any questions, remarks or suggestions, don’t hesitate to leave a comment, and your question will be answered within the next 24 hours.

Thanks for reading my introducion, and…have a clean house!

George Cleany.

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It’s time for a festive family or holiday dinner at your home. You’ve made your shopping list and checked it several times. The good linen tablecloth has been refreshed and is sitting in wait of table settings, the centerpiece, and the decorative finishing touches. The dinner is in the oven, the dessert is arriving with the guests, and the beverages are chilling in the fridge.

It’s time to open the chest of silver and to your complete dismay, you discover that the contents, your precious silver, are tarnished. Time is at a premium and so you must decide whether you will resort to the ordinary, every day silverware or run to the nearest department store to replenish your supply with glistening, shining silver that obviously doesn’t show any evidence of tarnish.

Of course, it would have been best if you had checked on the silver several days ago, but out of sight is out of mind. Additionally, it would have been ideal had you checked on the silver the night before. At least then, you could have stayed up half the night to polish and polish and polish. Hopefully, this is a lesson learned and learned well. Read on to discover some handy preventative tips as well as cleaning suggestions.

Preventative Measures to Avoid Tarnish

• Clean the silver frequently. The more time that you allow to pass in between cleanings, the more tedious the task will be. The more frequently you clean the silver, the easier the cleaning involved will be and the less time consuming it will be as well.
• Store the silver properly to minimize tarnishing. Silver items should be enclosed in a cabinet, cupboard, or chest that closes tightly to prevent air borne contaminants from reaching it. Do not store the silver with plastic or wool.
• Body oils and salts on your skin can lead to tarnishing. Therefore, when transferring your silver from one location to another, use a clean cloth to handle it.
• Use your silver frequently and this will minimize the tarnishing that occurs, if any.
• Avoid rubber gloves whenever handling silver. This tends to promote tarnish.
• Wear cloth gloves to handle the silver when cleaning or polishing it.

Removing the Tarnish from the Silver

• The first step is to give the silver a good bath in hot, soapy water to remove any dirt, grease, or dust.
• Dry the silver completely with a clean towel.
• Light tarnish is usually not too difficult to remove. Use a silver polishing mitt in an attempt to remove the tarnish.
• Purchase a commercial product that has been specially formulated to remove tarnish from silver. Use the instructions that are included with the product. Typically, you will find the instructions on the label of the container.
• If the product that you purchased is a liquid silver dip, use caution. Dipping a clean cloth into the solution and rubbing it onto the silver works better to clean decorative pieces that have intricately designed patterns that include small crevices, nooks, and crannies. Silver items with handles that are made from other materials might also benefit from this method rather than an immersion.

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Maybe you love pleather and maybe you love leather. Either way, the appearance of mildew on your best luggage, expensive handbags, or Italian shoes is not something that you love. In fact, it isn’t something that you look forward to removing either. Fortunately, several steps can be taken to minimize the damage from mildew on your leather products.

Cleaning Mildew

Initially, you should attempt to remove as much of the mildew as possible. Do this outside in the fresh air since you want to avoid releasing mildew spores inside your home. A dry, clean cloth, dry, clean sponge, or a small scrubbing brush with nylon bristles that is clean and dry can be used to remove the mildew.

Next, make a solution of soapy water. Using a clean cloth or sponge, wipe the item completely clean. Place the item in a location where it will remain undisturbed. Allow it to dry completely. It is best to place the item out of direct sunlight and away from heat.

If the product is made from real leather, you will need to follow up with a leather conditioner. If you don’t already have one, purchase it as soon as possible for the best benefit. Apply the leather conditioner to the product following the instructions that are provided by the manufacturer. Typically, these instructions are located on the label of the product.

If these steps do not correct the situation and the mildew persists to grow, then you will need to take additional measures. Make a solution using equal parts of water and rubbing alcohol. Using a clean sponge dipped in the solution, wipe the leather product clean. Use a fresh cloth or sponge dipped in clean water to wipe the product again.

Place the product in an out of the way location where it can air dry. Remember to keep it out of direct sunlight and away from heated areas. Once the item is completely dry, remember to treat it with the leather conditioner according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Mildew Prevention

One of the best strategies to deal with mildew is to prevent it in the first place. Mildew grows from mold. Molds typically like closed up areas that are damp, warm, and poorly lighted. Additionally, they flourish wherever these conditions exist along with poor air circulation.

They also prefer natural products, tending to give synthetic materials a wide berth. Mildew can create a lot of problems for your natural fabrics including discoloration, musty odors, and deterioration of the fabric.

To prevent mildew from invading your possessions, keep the area where things are stored dry. Open closed doors and drawers occasionally to allow clean air in and musty air out. Remove any sign of mildew immediately to prevent it from spreading to other items or damaging the item beyond repair.

Additionally, you should prevent moisture from entering your home. Repair cracks in the foundation, air dry things that accidentally become wet, waterproof your home’s foundation and walls, and vent the dryer to the exterior of the home. Use a dehumidifier to rid the air of moisture, or heat the room and open the windows to release the air that is now full of moisture.

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Nothing can be worse than lingering odors in the home.  Whether it is from cooking, pets, or mildew and mold in the home, the smell can be very offensive to both you and your guests.  Removing lingering odors from the home can be a daunting task, but many easy steps can be taken to insure that embarrassing odors are eliminated.

Many products abound on the market for killing odors in the home.  There are sprays, plug-ins, and even candles that can be burnt in the living area that help relieve those offensive smells. What do these products do in eliminating odor? Actually, very little.  What the lion’s share of these products do is simply mask the offensive odor, and work to cover up the smell.

Sometimes, simple cleaning that is ordinarily not carried out goes a long way in eliminating odors in the home.  Here are a few things you can do in the fight against odor.

1. Probably one of the worst smells is the strong odor of sewage that can invade the home.  Knowing the cause and the simple solution will effectively eliminate this smell.  In a sewer system, all drains have a trap that is placed between the actual sewer and your home.  This trap should always be filled with water, because this water acts as an odor barrier between the home and sewer.  If the trap dries out, sewer odors are allowed to enter the home. Many times, simply pouring water into a little used drain, such as a floor drain in the basement, will recharge the trap with water and effectively restore the odor barrier.
2. If there is a strong smell of sewage or urine around the toilet, and careful cleaning does not eliminate it, then the culprit may be the wax ring that seals the toilet from the drain.  Attempt to move the toilet bowl from side to side.  It should resist several pounds of force, and if the toilet bowl moves easily, then the wax ring has failed.  Although this problem can be fixed by an experienced do it yourselfer, it might be a good idea to seek help from a professional.
3. A kitchen garbage disposal can be a real problem area when it comes to kitchen odor.  If adding bleach, baking soda or vinegar does not end the problem, suspect the rubber ring around the opening to the disposal.  The rubber ring can over time collect a lot of gunk, and because it is generally damp most of the time, is a real source of odor in the kitchen.  Scrub this ring thoroughly underneath with a stiff brush or rag and your favorite antibacterial cleaner.
4. Cigarette smoke can be a real problem in both a home and a car.  Cigarette smoke penetrates the wood and finished materials in your home, and will linger a very long time.  To eliminate the odor, place several small dishes of ordinary Pine-Sol in the room, and close the room off if possible overnight or even for a couple of days.  The fresh pine detergent scent is very strong, and eliminates and covers up the smell of cigarette smoke.  After closing up the room, air it out thoroughly by opening the windows and allowing the outdoor air to freshen the room.  The strong cigarette odor will be almost virtually eliminated.
5. Kitchen odors can be tough to eliminate.  One of the easiest ways to eliminate cooking odors is to place a bowl of ordinary baking soda in the problem area.  Baking soda absorbs the odor, and it is cheap to buy. Placing an open box of baking soda in the fridge also works wonders to eliminate odor.  Sprinkle baking soda in the bottom of a cat’s litter box to keep odor down. Make a square box from aluminum foil, pour some vanilla extract in the box, and place in an oven that is set on “warm.”  The vanilla extract, as it evaporates, will effectively eliminate odors in the kitchen.

Many of these tips are easy fixes for eliminating odor.  Homeowners, though, should be aware of other possibilities that effectively eliminate offensive odors.  A negative ion generator works very well in both cleaning the allergens and bacteria from the air, and eliminating odors. Negative ion generators are approved by the FDA for removing allergens, and have been tested by Good Housekeeping Magazine.  A test by the US Department of Agriculture revealed that ionization led to 52 percent less dust and 95 percent less bacteria in the air.  Because pollutants are borne on dust particles in the air, it is easy to see how effective a negative ion generator is in eliminating odor.

Studies have also shown ozone is a very effective cleaner of the air. Ozone in nature is a powerful cleanser, and you will notice the fresh scent of ozone after a particularly close lightning strike during a thunderstorm.  You should be aware, though, that there is controversy over using ozone generators as an odor eliminator in the home.  Research on the Internet can give you a lot of good information to help you decide if an ozone generator works for you.

Eliminating odor in the home can seem like a full time task.  By carefully checking drains, traps, and other odor causing sources in the home, you can go a long way in keeping offensive odor to a minimum.  And technology today provides a lot of good resources for the consumer willing to do a little research.

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These procedures may help remove stains on hard surface floors, but cannot guarantee complete removal. Burns, holes, or “permanent” stains may require a replacement “patch” of that section of the floor.

Caution: When working with any chemicals, carefully read and follow the label directions for using that chemical, especially any cautions on safe use! With solvents, be very careful to have ventilation, and no flame or spark in area! The first time you use any procedure on any floor, test it first on an out-of-the-way part of the floor to be sure it does not damage the flooring or finish.

• Notes: If steel wool is suggested, use fine grade, 000 grade. Scouring powder will help remove many stains, but can also permanently scratch the floor. If you decide to use it, use only a mild type, and be very careful about rubbing too much. Concentrated liquid commercial household cleaners, rubbed onto a stubborn spot, may remove it as well as scouring powders without the danger of scratching. Rinse off well. Do not use on wood floors. Do not use water solutions, or cleaners which have to be rinsed off with water, on wood floors. Use a solvent or solvent-based cleaning wax. After removing a stain, rinse the area thoroughly, dry completely, and, if floor finish has been removed in that area, recoat with appropriate finish or wax.

Alcoholic Beverage Stains: Rub with a cloth dampened in a solution of detergent and warm water. If the stain remains, rub it with a different cloth dampened with denatured alcohol.

Blood Stains: Mop or sponge with clear, cold water. If the stain remains, mop or sponge it with a solution of ammonia and cold water.

Candy Stains: Rub with a cloth dampened in detergent and warm water. For abrasive action, use steel wool instead of a cloth except on “no wax”, or hard-surface floors. On them use powdered detergent and a plastic scrubbing pad dampened with warm water.

Crayon Marks: Toothpaste. Crayon marks on the floor may be removed by rubbing them with a damp cloth containing toothpaste. Toothpaste will not work well on wallpaper or porous surfaces.

Dye Stains: Rub with a cloth dampened in a solution of one part chlorine bleach and two parts water. Under no circumstances combine ammonia with chlorine bleach, since them may lead to the formation of a harmful gas. The water can hurt wood floors, do not let it soak.

Grease Stains: Remove as much as possible with newspaper, paper towels, or a plastic spatula. On resilient tile, rub with a cloth dampened in detergent and warm water, or if that does not work, use a concentrated commercial household cleaner, and then rinse well. On wood and cork, put a cloth saturated with dry cleaning fluid on the stain for five minutes. Then wipe the area dry and wash with detergent and water.

Fresh Fruit Stains: Rub with a cloth dampened with a solution of detergent and warm water. If this is not effective and your floor is resilient tile, wood, or cork, rub the stain with a cloth dampened in a solution of one tablespoon of oxalic acid (available at drugstores and hardware stores) and one pint of water.

Ink Stains: Rub with a cloth dampened in warm water and detergent. If the floor is not hard-surfaced, use a commercial ink remover and follow the instructions on the package.

Iodine Stains: Rub with a cloth dampened in a solution of household ammonia and water. If this is not effective, saturate the cloth in the solution and place it over the stain until the stain is removed.

Lipstick Stains: Rub with a cloth dampened in detergent and warm water. If you do not get results, rub with steel wool dipped in water and detergent. If the floor is hard- surfaced, “no wax”, or embossed vinyl asbestos, use a plastic scouring pad instead of steel wool.

Nail Polish Stains: On resilient flooring, rub with a cloth dampened in a concentrated detergent solution, or use scouring powder, water, and a plastic mesh pad. On wood and cork, rub gently with steel wool. After removing a stain, rinse the area thoroughly, dry completely, and, if floor finish has been removed in that area, recoat with appropriate finish or wax.

Oil Stains: Remove as much as possible with newspaper, paper towels, or a plastic spatula. On resilient tile, rub with a cloth dampened in detergent and warm water, or if that does not work, use a concentrated commercial household cleaner, and then rinse well. On wood and cork, put a cloth saturated with dry cleaning fluid on the stain for five minutes. Then wipe the area dry and wash with detergent and water. On stone, use a formulated solvent with a soft, clean cloth.

Paint or Varnish: On resilient tile, rub with a cloth or plastic mesh pad dipped in warm water and detergent. On wood and cork, rub lightly with a cloth dampened in a formulated paint remover following manufacturer’s directions so as not to damage the permanent surface finish. On a hard-surfaced floor, scrub with a concentrated solution of detergent and water.

Rubber Heel Marks: On vinyl resilient flooring, wash with detergent and water and rinse to remove any solvent residue.  or Baking Soda. Rub the heel mark with a paste of baking soda and water. Don’t use too much water or the baking soda will lose its abrasive quality. A pencil eraser may remove them. If not, try a commercial concentrated household cleaner containing petroleum solvent, or a solvent-based cleaner.

Rust Stains: Use a commercial rust remover made for your type of floor such as Wink or Zud.

Shoe Polish Stains: On resilient flooring, rub with a cloth dampened in a concentrated detergent solution, or use scouring powder, water, and a plastic mesh pad. On wood and cork, rub gently with steel wool. After removing a stain, rinse the area thoroughly, dry completely, and, if floor finish has been removed in that area, recoat with appropriate finish or wax.

Stubborn Spots on Vinyl: A coat of wax or vinyl finish will protect floor from staining if highly colored liquids, etc., spill on the floor. It will also protect against scratches. If sticky spots don’t come off in washing, rub with a plastic mesh pad to loosen. Do not use scouring powder as it will scratch the floor. Note: White or light vinyl may turn yellow from soil trapped between layers of wax; in that case remove the wax and recoat clean floor. Too much sunlight can also yellow a white vinyl floor.

Tar: To remove tar, freeze it to brittleness with ice cubes and then scrape it off with a plastic spatula. To remove the tar stain, wipe with a cloth dampened with either a dry cleaning solvent or a formulated safety solvent.

Urine Stains: Rub with a hot, damp cloth and scouring powder. For old stubborn stains, use a 10 to 1 dilution of liquid bleach. Rinse well with clean water. Bleach reaching the actual wood surface will lighten/discolor the floor.

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